Sarve, Habsan
Murud, along the coast of Raigad district in Maharashtra is a well known tourist spot famous for the impregnable and undefeated sea-fort of Janjira. The Siddi Dynasty exerted uninterrupted control over the island fort and the surrounding region - called Habsan - from the late 15th century, right up to its ascension into the Indian Republic in 1948, resisting attacks by the Marathas, British, Portuguese and the Dutch.
A little south of Murud, across the Dighi creek lies the sleepy coastal village of Sarve, also a part of the erstwhile Habsan state.
Sarve - as it stands today - is an up and coming rural-tourism destination. The village seeks to promote a unique brand of sustainable rural tourism by relying on community support and making the best use of its available natural resources. In this, they are actively supported by the Swades Foundation and Grassroutes.
The village also has a unique identity with its association with South African anti-apartheid crusader Ayesha (Bibi) Dawood. Sadly, this important thread of history is slowly being forgotten. So much so, that I only learnt about it after being given a passing reference just ahead of my departure from the village.
The village of Sarve has three major communities - Muslims, Kolis and Kunbis (in no particular order).
Approaching Sarve
Sarve can be approached by two routes:
We - me and my mates from Pune - took the first route. After crossing the Velas Agaar village - not to be confused with the one in Ratnagiri famous for the turtle hatchlings - the road aligns itself right next to the coast. The rocky shore near Velas Agar - with its peculiar temple - slowly gives way to a fabulous beach at Aadgaon.
The road climbs here, away from the shore, and then rejoins as the village of Sarve with its rocky shore falls into view.
Our Hosts
Near the first set of houses on the shore-side we are greeted by our host for the weekend, Mr. Sabir Mukadam alongwith Mr. Kifayat Chougule, our co-host. He spearheads the rural-tourism initiative of the local community and is usually the first point of contact. He is a sharp man, in mid 40s, driven by a purpose.
He had spent most of his prime in Mumbai, working hard to make his ends meet and save for the family back home. After saving enough to construct his own house, he returned to Sarve, mostly empty handed, but with a vision for the future. We met up with his family - wife and three daughters. The son, now studying in an ITI, was out and would return later in the day.
His modest house is bang on the shoreline at about 20 steps from the water, but at a safe elevation. Over lunch, he narrates a story of one of the many severe coastal storms his house has endured. We listen, enchanted by the narrative.
The lunch itself is a modest fare, in sync with the general mood of the place. Yet there’s enough opulence in hospitality that makes everything a lavish affair. The food stays vegetarian, owing to the month of Shravan. The non-vegetarian delicacies will have to be sampled next time.
Oh yes, the non-vegetarian diet primarily includes fish - caught by hands as they drift into the shallow pools formed by the rocky shoreline. We are told we would be trying that in the evening. Excited smiles abound!
Contact Info:
For bookings, Sabir Mukadam can be reached on 7588650329. Alternately, Rudes Gaikar of the Swades Foundation be reached on 9209715520.
© Kapil Pilankar
Murud, along the coast of Raigad district in Maharashtra is a well known tourist spot famous for the impregnable and undefeated sea-fort of Janjira. The Siddi Dynasty exerted uninterrupted control over the island fort and the surrounding region - called Habsan - from the late 15th century, right up to its ascension into the Indian Republic in 1948, resisting attacks by the Marathas, British, Portuguese and the Dutch.
A little south of Murud, across the Dighi creek lies the sleepy coastal village of Sarve, also a part of the erstwhile Habsan state.
Sarve - on the map
Sarve - as it stands today - is an up and coming rural-tourism destination. The village seeks to promote a unique brand of sustainable rural tourism by relying on community support and making the best use of its available natural resources. In this, they are actively supported by the Swades Foundation and Grassroutes.
The village also has a unique identity with its association with South African anti-apartheid crusader Ayesha (Bibi) Dawood. Sadly, this important thread of history is slowly being forgotten. So much so, that I only learnt about it after being given a passing reference just ahead of my departure from the village.
The village of Sarve has three major communities - Muslims, Kolis and Kunbis (in no particular order).
Approaching Sarve
Sarve can be approached by two routes:
- Mangaon - Mhasala - Vadavli Phata - Aadgaon - Sarve
- Alibag/Roha - Murud - Agardanda - Ferry- Dighi - Sarve
We - me and my mates from Pune - took the first route. After crossing the Velas Agaar village - not to be confused with the one in Ratnagiri famous for the turtle hatchlings - the road aligns itself right next to the coast. The rocky shore near Velas Agar - with its peculiar temple - slowly gives way to a fabulous beach at Aadgaon.
The peculiar temple at Velas Agaar - on a rock! I regret not taking a closer pic.
The Aadgaon Beach
The road climbs here, away from the shore, and then rejoins as the village of Sarve with its rocky shore falls into view.
Our Hosts
Near the first set of houses on the shore-side we are greeted by our host for the weekend, Mr. Sabir Mukadam alongwith Mr. Kifayat Chougule, our co-host. He spearheads the rural-tourism initiative of the local community and is usually the first point of contact. He is a sharp man, in mid 40s, driven by a purpose.
He had spent most of his prime in Mumbai, working hard to make his ends meet and save for the family back home. After saving enough to construct his own house, he returned to Sarve, mostly empty handed, but with a vision for the future. We met up with his family - wife and three daughters. The son, now studying in an ITI, was out and would return later in the day.
Mr. Sabir's House and the rocky shoreline
The lunch itself is a modest fare, in sync with the general mood of the place. Yet there’s enough opulence in hospitality that makes everything a lavish affair. The food stays vegetarian, owing to the month of Shravan. The non-vegetarian delicacies will have to be sampled next time.
Oh yes, the non-vegetarian diet primarily includes fish - caught by hands as they drift into the shallow pools formed by the rocky shoreline. We are told we would be trying that in the evening. Excited smiles abound!
Contact Info:
For bookings, Sabir Mukadam can be reached on 7588650329. Alternately, Rudes Gaikar of the Swades Foundation be reached on 9209715520.
© Kapil Pilankar
This is a true discovery. Looks like am overly place to visit...
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