Day1: Saturday, 25th April, 2015
Continued from Part 2
1420 hrs:
The northwards coastal road from Vengurla that connects the beaches is a proper ghat road with inclined twists and it thoroughly tests Tejal. There's a diversion for Wayangani beach midway, but we decide to skip it: Kondura was after all the beach that had driven the trip in the first place and had to be prioritized.
-x-x-x-
About Kondura
Kondura beach is located about 10km north of Vengurla along the coastal highway. The beach is small, about 300 meters end-to-end, and is flanked by hills on either side. As seen from the sea, one sees a small Lingeshwar Temple near the right flank, a crescent of sand, followed by an arrangement of coconut trees along a slope that descends from a higher plateau to the sea. A small freshwater brrok descends from a cleft in the plateau and meets the sea near the left flank. The water - when we came last September - was clear and approachable. Further seaward, the water had a bluish tinge.
The approach road to the beach ends at the plateau, some 100 ft above the Lingeshwar Temple. A staircase takes one to the temple and onwards to the beach. The pic that drives this trip was taken from the road-head.
This beach is very cozy and hardly sees much tourist flow. Locals from Kondurawadi frequently hang out by the temple. The beach is idyllic and the availability of exactly one homestay makes this a destination for a relaxed, do-nothing kind of a beach outing.
Needless to say, this is one of my favorite beaches in Maharashtra.
-x-x-x-
1430 hrs:
We arrive at Kondura Beach. This scene is somewhat different from the one I'd seen last September. There's a new kutcha road going from the road-head to the beach and is broad enough for a truck to pass. We descend along the staircase next to the Lingeshwar temple.
There's too much sand deposited on the beach. The water is unapproachable due to the drag. The brook no longer reaches to the sea; the sand deposit has stopped it midway. I am disappointed and suspect foul-play. The beach still is a pretty sight.
1445 hrs:
I curse my luck for a while - Tejal is happy as a bird though. We decide to check out the hill on the northern flank. I'd seen a pathway earlier in Google Maps that crosses the hill and reaches to the next beach. We explore this path.
1450 hrs:
A smallish walk along the cliff edge leads us to a hut on the hill - highest point of the path, barely 100 ft above the sea level - with many chicken and a strong aroma of kokam. Wikimapia lists this place as 'Kondura chi attya' (Kondura's Aunt). Beyond this hut, taking a few steps opened up the expanse of the Haricharangiri Beach (named after a Math of the same name). This beach is larger compared to Kondura. But again too much sand deposited.
We turn around to return.
1520 hrs:
We are back at the Lingeshwar Temple. We decide to rest. Tejal sleeps off on the bench outside, while I doze off in the inner courtyard (too small for a courtyard actually, but cant find a better word) of the temple.
1600 hrs:
I wake up to a crackle of laughter of local kids nearby. Tejal tried to wake me up once but gave up and is now busy with selfies. We decide to explore the southern flank as well. There's some ongoing construction on this hill that we saw from the other hill. We ask the kids to guide us and they agree. Should be fun this ...
1620 hrs:
Halfway up through the hill the kids stop. Here iss the gate to the under construction place and a fork to go to the other side of the hill. The kids would not go further. We see a solitary worker at the site and ask for permission to enter and see the property. We are turned down - entry is forbidden.
We continue on the track, round the hill and come to face the long Wayangani beach. This beach also has a small freshwater brook running to the sea and the Sagareshwar lighthouse at the hill on the far end. However, like Kondura, there is too much sand deposited which obstructed the brook and raised the slope of the beach. We turn back.
1640 hrs:
We again request for admission to the under construction property. We are again denied. The owner is expected soon, so we cannot be let in. We learn a few things though: the property is 8 acres in area, the construction in question is supposed to be a farm-house for family and friends and at current rates the plot was atleast worth Rs 3.5 crore. Its just marginally beyond my budget at the moment, so we say we are not interested and make our way back to the bike.
Also, we learn that sand deposited on the beach was a natural phenomenon. It would be least at the end of monsoon, i.e. September, the time I'd come previously.
1645 hrs:
I make a detour to the Lingeshwar Temple and make a small donation before joining Tejal at the bike. She's found some ratambas (raw kokam fruit) and tried it. The juices have glued to her teeth she says. Our water supply is finished. We push the bike on the slope and at the first house ask for water. This house is quite beautiful and has mango orchard. We see some nice fruit within grasping distance, but control our greed.
We realize that we are running low on fuel. We ask around and learn that the closest fuel pump is at Vengurla.
1700 hrs:
We leave Kondura and continue further north. We plan to check the sunset from Mobar beach and then return to Vengurla. We may have just enough fuel to pull it off.
© Kapil Pilankar
Continued from Part 2
1420 hrs:
The northwards coastal road from Vengurla that connects the beaches is a proper ghat road with inclined twists and it thoroughly tests Tejal. There's a diversion for Wayangani beach midway, but we decide to skip it: Kondura was after all the beach that had driven the trip in the first place and had to be prioritized.
-x-x-x-
About Kondura
Kondura beach is located about 10km north of Vengurla along the coastal highway. The beach is small, about 300 meters end-to-end, and is flanked by hills on either side. As seen from the sea, one sees a small Lingeshwar Temple near the right flank, a crescent of sand, followed by an arrangement of coconut trees along a slope that descends from a higher plateau to the sea. A small freshwater brrok descends from a cleft in the plateau and meets the sea near the left flank. The water - when we came last September - was clear and approachable. Further seaward, the water had a bluish tinge.
The approach road to the beach ends at the plateau, some 100 ft above the Lingeshwar Temple. A staircase takes one to the temple and onwards to the beach. The pic that drives this trip was taken from the road-head.
The Kondura Pic: Lingeshwar Temple @ Bottom Left, Sep 2014
The sands of Kondura, Sep 2014
This beach is very cozy and hardly sees much tourist flow. Locals from Kondurawadi frequently hang out by the temple. The beach is idyllic and the availability of exactly one homestay makes this a destination for a relaxed, do-nothing kind of a beach outing.
Needless to say, this is one of my favorite beaches in Maharashtra.
-x-x-x-
1430 hrs:
We arrive at Kondura Beach. This scene is somewhat different from the one I'd seen last September. There's a new kutcha road going from the road-head to the beach and is broad enough for a truck to pass. We descend along the staircase next to the Lingeshwar temple.
There's too much sand deposited on the beach. The water is unapproachable due to the drag. The brook no longer reaches to the sea; the sand deposit has stopped it midway. I am disappointed and suspect foul-play. The beach still is a pretty sight.
The Kondura Pic: Today's edition
1445 hrs:
I curse my luck for a while - Tejal is happy as a bird though. We decide to check out the hill on the northern flank. I'd seen a pathway earlier in Google Maps that crosses the hill and reaches to the next beach. We explore this path.
The path winds through the rocks and trees
1450 hrs:
A smallish walk along the cliff edge leads us to a hut on the hill - highest point of the path, barely 100 ft above the sea level - with many chicken and a strong aroma of kokam. Wikimapia lists this place as 'Kondura chi attya' (Kondura's Aunt). Beyond this hut, taking a few steps opened up the expanse of the Haricharangiri Beach (named after a Math of the same name). This beach is larger compared to Kondura. But again too much sand deposited.
We turn around to return.
Kondura chi Attya, with Haricharangiri Beach in the background
The view from Attya's balcony
We are back at the Lingeshwar Temple. We decide to rest. Tejal sleeps off on the bench outside, while I doze off in the inner courtyard (too small for a courtyard actually, but cant find a better word) of the temple.
1600 hrs:
I wake up to a crackle of laughter of local kids nearby. Tejal tried to wake me up once but gave up and is now busy with selfies. We decide to explore the southern flank as well. There's some ongoing construction on this hill that we saw from the other hill. We ask the kids to guide us and they agree. Should be fun this ...
Local kids at Kondura: a.k.a. my alarm and guide
1620 hrs:
Halfway up through the hill the kids stop. Here iss the gate to the under construction place and a fork to go to the other side of the hill. The kids would not go further. We see a solitary worker at the site and ask for permission to enter and see the property. We are turned down - entry is forbidden.
We continue on the track, round the hill and come to face the long Wayangani beach. This beach also has a small freshwater brook running to the sea and the Sagareshwar lighthouse at the hill on the far end. However, like Kondura, there is too much sand deposited which obstructed the brook and raised the slope of the beach. We turn back.
The expanse of Wayangani
1640 hrs:
We again request for admission to the under construction property. We are again denied. The owner is expected soon, so we cannot be let in. We learn a few things though: the property is 8 acres in area, the construction in question is supposed to be a farm-house for family and friends and at current rates the plot was atleast worth Rs 3.5 crore. Its just marginally beyond my budget at the moment, so we say we are not interested and make our way back to the bike.
Also, we learn that sand deposited on the beach was a natural phenomenon. It would be least at the end of monsoon, i.e. September, the time I'd come previously.
The boat perch
Villa overlooking the cliff
1645 hrs:
I make a detour to the Lingeshwar Temple and make a small donation before joining Tejal at the bike. She's found some ratambas (raw kokam fruit) and tried it. The juices have glued to her teeth she says. Our water supply is finished. We push the bike on the slope and at the first house ask for water. This house is quite beautiful and has mango orchard. We see some nice fruit within grasping distance, but control our greed.
We realize that we are running low on fuel. We ask around and learn that the closest fuel pump is at Vengurla.
Mangoes ... just removed
1700 hrs:
We leave Kondura and continue further north. We plan to check the sunset from Mobar beach and then return to Vengurla. We may have just enough fuel to pull it off.
© Kapil Pilankar
Beautiful...Blessed land
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