Day1: Monday, 19th May, 2014
This was the big day! We were to start off for our four day trek - my first in the Himalayas. The trek route was a part of the seven day Hampta Circle trek (not to be confused with Hampta pass which is at a higher altitude). Most of the major trek routes in the vicinity were closed off due to heavy snow. Hampta circle, as suggested by our guide Mr. Budhi Singh, was a viable option considering the low altitude, good weather conditions and the relative inexperience of our group.
The entire trek, as stated earlier, was to be completed in about four days. Two and a half days of ascent and the remainder for descent. The trek started at the small village of Shuru on the Manali-Jagatsukh road and ended at the comparatively larger Jagatsukh. We had three campsites: Baggi, Srottu and Tilgun. Our highest point was called Thatti. The camp supplies were loaded from Banara which was also the village to which Budhi Singh belonged.
We checked out of our hotel by 0930 hrs. The necessary items went in our sacks - spare clothes, water, some dry food and some items to keep the cold out - and the rest was deposited with the hotel management for safekeeping. We made our way to the start point split in a sumo and a rickshaw and alighted after crossing a small bridge after Prini village. A small pathway detached from the main road and wound upwards. This was the start of our trek. We had a quick round of instructions and dos-and-donts. Ms. Nisha and Ms. Priya, who also were our guides and assistants to Budhi Singh joined us here after a few moments.
The trek started with the chant of 'Ganpati Bappa Morya!' which brought about puzzled looks from our guides. The route was the approach trail to the village of Shuru. An initial steep ascent was followed by a level walk to enter the village. The route here was cemented as it was the principal access point for the village. There was no direct road. We reached Shuru village in about half an hour.
We crossed the main village to reach the Bhagwati Temple at its far end. The temple was beautifully constructed with alternating levels of stone and wood. Deodhar wood, to be precise. The area enjoyed a canopy of mighty deodhar trees on the higher slopes. The lower slopes were utilised for apple orchards. Any felled trees were utilized for construction and furniture locally. Felling of trees was obviously prohibited by law, but a quick look around would tell you that the law was not heavily enforced. The Bhagwati Temple has a beautiful facade with carvings of deities and a nice courtyard which can be used for resting. The view from here is beautiful with the Beas clearly seen snaking its way through the valley and the mighty snow-capped mountains visible on the other side.
The route after the temple is actually a dirt track following the edge of the mountain and making its way towards Banara. The valley, the Beas and the peaks are visible throughout on this section. While on our way to Banara, Budhi Singh spoke of some local legends of Takshaknaag - the guardian deity of Banara and the areas we were to visit on our trek route. We reached Banara by 1115 hrs. We had a quick refill of our water bottles, followed by a break at Budhi Singh's house. Here we were greeted with a glass of Coke each! He had also arranged for a few trekking sticks and a makeshift cricket bat.
Our next stop was the Takshaknag Temple, located on the higher slopes at the outskirts of Banara village. The temple has a similar design to the Bhagwati Temple at Shuru. We rested a while in the open space outside the temple and then started the comparatively steeper hike to Baggi. The trail was a well laid out stone path amongst the tall deodhars and pines. The trail continued on the moderately steep gradient with a few switchbacks and straight patches.
A little while later, Budhi Singh asked us to deviate from the main path to a short steep track of about 20-30 steps. At the end of the track was the beautiful campsite of Baggi. The campsite was a high-altitude meadow with fresh grass at a very moderate gradient. The meadow was surrounded by vegetable patches and apple orchards on the eastern, western and southern sides. The norhtern side dropped quickly to the main trail. The campsite had a pipe acting as a watersource at the north-eastern corner. Pipe drew fresh water from the melting snow at the higher altitudes and supplied to the campsites and villages below. The main open patch near the western end was reserved for the sleeping tents. The kitchen tent was halfway from the sleeping tents to the water pipe.
It was already 1400hrs by the time we reached Baggi. At Baggi, we met the remainder of the crew. Mr. Rudra Chand was the camp cook and porter. Mr. Ishwar Dutt was the assistant guide, porter and helper. Mr. Negi minded the horses. We were taught to pitch a tent by the staff. the first one was a demo. We pitched two others. The fourth was pitched earlier. Hot lunch followed. We rested for a while and then had a game of cricket. The game was interrupted twice - once when the bat snapped in two, and then when the ball went in the apple orcherd next door. The apple orchard incident put an end to the game.
Post tea, we visited the southern edge at Baggi. Here, beyond the fields, was a narrow ledge with a steep drop of around 120-150 feet. The valley felt strangely peaceful here. the beautiful views were however obstructed by the tall trees. We were later reprimanded by Budhi Singh for venturing too close to the edge. During the return, we collected some wood for the campfire. A game of cards followed.
Dinner was early at 2000hrs. We had a nice, bustling campfire session followed by a cup of hot Bournvita and then were off to bed by 2230hrs.
Note: We observed quite a few bone fragments - all cattle - in and around Baggi. These were quickly attributed to a bear which resided in the mountains nearby. The guides said that the bear resided in a cave which in the summers was filled with such bone fragments of what was once cattle and then bear-food.
- Kapil Pilankar
This was the big day! We were to start off for our four day trek - my first in the Himalayas. The trek route was a part of the seven day Hampta Circle trek (not to be confused with Hampta pass which is at a higher altitude). Most of the major trek routes in the vicinity were closed off due to heavy snow. Hampta circle, as suggested by our guide Mr. Budhi Singh, was a viable option considering the low altitude, good weather conditions and the relative inexperience of our group.
The entire trek, as stated earlier, was to be completed in about four days. Two and a half days of ascent and the remainder for descent. The trek started at the small village of Shuru on the Manali-Jagatsukh road and ended at the comparatively larger Jagatsukh. We had three campsites: Baggi, Srottu and Tilgun. Our highest point was called Thatti. The camp supplies were loaded from Banara which was also the village to which Budhi Singh belonged.
We checked out of our hotel by 0930 hrs. The necessary items went in our sacks - spare clothes, water, some dry food and some items to keep the cold out - and the rest was deposited with the hotel management for safekeeping. We made our way to the start point split in a sumo and a rickshaw and alighted after crossing a small bridge after Prini village. A small pathway detached from the main road and wound upwards. This was the start of our trek. We had a quick round of instructions and dos-and-donts. Ms. Nisha and Ms. Priya, who also were our guides and assistants to Budhi Singh joined us here after a few moments.
The trek started with the chant of 'Ganpati Bappa Morya!' which brought about puzzled looks from our guides. The route was the approach trail to the village of Shuru. An initial steep ascent was followed by a level walk to enter the village. The route here was cemented as it was the principal access point for the village. There was no direct road. We reached Shuru village in about half an hour.
We crossed the main village to reach the Bhagwati Temple at its far end. The temple was beautifully constructed with alternating levels of stone and wood. Deodhar wood, to be precise. The area enjoyed a canopy of mighty deodhar trees on the higher slopes. The lower slopes were utilised for apple orchards. Any felled trees were utilized for construction and furniture locally. Felling of trees was obviously prohibited by law, but a quick look around would tell you that the law was not heavily enforced. The Bhagwati Temple has a beautiful facade with carvings of deities and a nice courtyard which can be used for resting. The view from here is beautiful with the Beas clearly seen snaking its way through the valley and the mighty snow-capped mountains visible on the other side.
The Bhagwati Mandir, Shuru
L-R: Chinmay, Anmol, Krunal, Arpit, Sarita, Mayank, Raunak, me, Budhi Singh, Sandhya
Pic By: Pritam
The route after the temple is actually a dirt track following the edge of the mountain and making its way towards Banara. The valley, the Beas and the peaks are visible throughout on this section. While on our way to Banara, Budhi Singh spoke of some local legends of Takshaknaag - the guardian deity of Banara and the areas we were to visit on our trek route. We reached Banara by 1115 hrs. We had a quick refill of our water bottles, followed by a break at Budhi Singh's house. Here we were greeted with a glass of Coke each! He had also arranged for a few trekking sticks and a makeshift cricket bat.
Between Shuru and Banara
Pic By: Chinmay
Our next stop was the Takshaknag Temple, located on the higher slopes at the outskirts of Banara village. The temple has a similar design to the Bhagwati Temple at Shuru. We rested a while in the open space outside the temple and then started the comparatively steeper hike to Baggi. The trail was a well laid out stone path amongst the tall deodhars and pines. The trail continued on the moderately steep gradient with a few switchbacks and straight patches.
The Takshaknag Temple, Banara
Pic By: Chinmay
Between Banara and Baggi
Pic By: Chinmay
A little while later, Budhi Singh asked us to deviate from the main path to a short steep track of about 20-30 steps. At the end of the track was the beautiful campsite of Baggi. The campsite was a high-altitude meadow with fresh grass at a very moderate gradient. The meadow was surrounded by vegetable patches and apple orchards on the eastern, western and southern sides. The norhtern side dropped quickly to the main trail. The campsite had a pipe acting as a watersource at the north-eastern corner. Pipe drew fresh water from the melting snow at the higher altitudes and supplied to the campsites and villages below. The main open patch near the western end was reserved for the sleeping tents. The kitchen tent was halfway from the sleeping tents to the water pipe.
Baggi
Tent pitching
L-R: Tejal, Chinmay, Negi-ji, Raunak, Anmol, Krunal
Pic By: Pritam
Maggie Time
L-R: Krunal, me, Mayank (front, blue), Pritam (back, green), Sarita, Arpit, Sandhya
Pic By: Chinmay
Post tea, we visited the southern edge at Baggi. Here, beyond the fields, was a narrow ledge with a steep drop of around 120-150 feet. The valley felt strangely peaceful here. the beautiful views were however obstructed by the tall trees. We were later reprimanded by Budhi Singh for venturing too close to the edge. During the return, we collected some wood for the campfire. A game of cards followed.
Dinner was early at 2000hrs. We had a nice, bustling campfire session followed by a cup of hot Bournvita and then were off to bed by 2230hrs.
Note: We observed quite a few bone fragments - all cattle - in and around Baggi. These were quickly attributed to a bear which resided in the mountains nearby. The guides said that the bear resided in a cave which in the summers was filled with such bone fragments of what was once cattle and then bear-food.
- Kapil Pilankar
P.S. Chinmay's right side brain correlated BEAR as PANDA whenever stories for the same were shared by Budhiji :P :D
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