23-24 May, 2014
My first foray in the state of Punjab lasted all but 12 hours. Never-the-less, it was good. After our trek near Manali, we took a convoluted detour to Amritsar before heading to Delhi for our return journey to Mumbai.
We travelled a distance of 420km from Manali - through Mandi, Palampur and Pathankot - to reach Amritsar. We started at about 0730hrs on an overcast Friday morning. It started raining as soon as we left Manali. The sun set by the time we left Pathankot and its vast defence campuses. A double-rainbow escorted us out as the sun and the clouds played their game in front of our eyes. It was almost 2300hrs by the time we checked in our hotel.
It somehow never understood when we entered the actual city. The stretch of Punjab that followed Pathankot seemed to be lost in darkness. Possibly a power cut. Single storey buildings lined the highway as indicators of villages that passed by. The density of people and houses about the highway increased steadily as we passed Verka. The core of Amritsar finally dawned after crossing the railway flyover.
We made our way to the Golden Temple parking lot by asking around for directions. The uncharted territory of narrow tangled lanes lied beyond. The flow of tourists continued; typical of a temple town (even at the ungodly hour of the night). We were booked in the Asha Guest House near the Golden Temple. The hosts sent one of their staff to guide us through the maze, who after a few comical mishaps (insert any Sardar joke here) did manage to escort us to the hotel gates.
A bit about the Asha Guest House here. The place is located at about 5mins walk from Golden Temple and the Jallianwala Baug each. The two-storey building has 10-12 small sized rooms. The rooms are mostly windowless and even though they are not dirty, they cannot be called as sparkling clean as well. All-in-all, a budget hotel typical of a small temple town. Acceptable for an overnight stay, nothing more.
We freshened up and left the hotel by 2330hrs to scavenge for our dinner. Amritsar has a decent buzz about it even late at night. The main gates of the Golden Temple are open round the clock. As a result, a few shops and hotels are open too. After a good and uneventful dinner - rounded off by an unexpectedly dilute lassi - we headed for a stroll in the temple premises.
The Golden Temple is a beautiful spectacle at night. The golden sanctum surrounded by water, in turn surrounded by white marble is fascinating. The main sanctum was closed at the hour. The other areas of the temple were however still full of people who had come in late and were resting. We took a walk around the 'nectar' lake, had a small photo-op and left the premises. We would take our darshan early next morning.
We left our hotel by 0630hrs on Saturday morning. The streets of Amritsar were already busy and the sun was steadily heating things up. We had a quick chai before entering the Temple. The temple today, on a bright May morning, was a blinding spectacle. The fierce sun had ample reflecting surfaces in the white marble walls, the lake and the golden sanctum.
We had a nice, quick darshan with countless other worshippers, followed by the 'khada prasad' which was downed instantly. A small photo-op followed. We had our breakfast in the langar hall of the temple. A simple and hearty affair. Our next stop was the Jallianwala Baug. The walk to the baug from the temple was punctuated by a few halts at the road-side shops for some quick souvenir shopping.
The Jallianwala Baug is a dreadful reminder of the cruelty enflicted upon the locals by the British. A few of the original baug walls have been preserved along with the historic well. A walk through the baug, passing next to the monuments, makes ones heart grim with sadness and hatred. A small museum in the baug houses some of the photos and newspaper articles of that bygone era of foreign cruelty. This monument will make you introspect about your contribution to the nation, or the sacrifices that you have to make in your day-to-day life which pale in comparison to those of the martyrs.
We were back at the hotel by 1000hrs. We packed up and checked out by 1030hrs to catch the Sarayu Yamuna Express to Delhi. The train left at around 1140hrs, thus ending my first foray into the state of Punjab.
Pics courtesy - Arpit Shah
- Kapil Pilankar
My first foray in the state of Punjab lasted all but 12 hours. Never-the-less, it was good. After our trek near Manali, we took a convoluted detour to Amritsar before heading to Delhi for our return journey to Mumbai.
We travelled a distance of 420km from Manali - through Mandi, Palampur and Pathankot - to reach Amritsar. We started at about 0730hrs on an overcast Friday morning. It started raining as soon as we left Manali. The sun set by the time we left Pathankot and its vast defence campuses. A double-rainbow escorted us out as the sun and the clouds played their game in front of our eyes. It was almost 2300hrs by the time we checked in our hotel.
It somehow never understood when we entered the actual city. The stretch of Punjab that followed Pathankot seemed to be lost in darkness. Possibly a power cut. Single storey buildings lined the highway as indicators of villages that passed by. The density of people and houses about the highway increased steadily as we passed Verka. The core of Amritsar finally dawned after crossing the railway flyover.
We made our way to the Golden Temple parking lot by asking around for directions. The uncharted territory of narrow tangled lanes lied beyond. The flow of tourists continued; typical of a temple town (even at the ungodly hour of the night). We were booked in the Asha Guest House near the Golden Temple. The hosts sent one of their staff to guide us through the maze, who after a few comical mishaps (insert any Sardar joke here) did manage to escort us to the hotel gates.
A bit about the Asha Guest House here. The place is located at about 5mins walk from Golden Temple and the Jallianwala Baug each. The two-storey building has 10-12 small sized rooms. The rooms are mostly windowless and even though they are not dirty, they cannot be called as sparkling clean as well. All-in-all, a budget hotel typical of a small temple town. Acceptable for an overnight stay, nothing more.
We freshened up and left the hotel by 2330hrs to scavenge for our dinner. Amritsar has a decent buzz about it even late at night. The main gates of the Golden Temple are open round the clock. As a result, a few shops and hotels are open too. After a good and uneventful dinner - rounded off by an unexpectedly dilute lassi - we headed for a stroll in the temple premises.
The Golden Temple is a beautiful spectacle at night. The golden sanctum surrounded by water, in turn surrounded by white marble is fascinating. The main sanctum was closed at the hour. The other areas of the temple were however still full of people who had come in late and were resting. We took a walk around the 'nectar' lake, had a small photo-op and left the premises. We would take our darshan early next morning.
Golden Temple Minarets
Golden Temple - Night
Golden Temple - Reflections
We left our hotel by 0630hrs on Saturday morning. The streets of Amritsar were already busy and the sun was steadily heating things up. We had a quick chai before entering the Temple. The temple today, on a bright May morning, was a blinding spectacle. The fierce sun had ample reflecting surfaces in the white marble walls, the lake and the golden sanctum.
Daybreak at the Golden Temple
Golden Temple - Visitors
We had a nice, quick darshan with countless other worshippers, followed by the 'khada prasad' which was downed instantly. A small photo-op followed. We had our breakfast in the langar hall of the temple. A simple and hearty affair. Our next stop was the Jallianwala Baug. The walk to the baug from the temple was punctuated by a few halts at the road-side shops for some quick souvenir shopping.
The Jallianwala Baug is a dreadful reminder of the cruelty enflicted upon the locals by the British. A few of the original baug walls have been preserved along with the historic well. A walk through the baug, passing next to the monuments, makes ones heart grim with sadness and hatred. A small museum in the baug houses some of the photos and newspaper articles of that bygone era of foreign cruelty. This monument will make you introspect about your contribution to the nation, or the sacrifices that you have to make in your day-to-day life which pale in comparison to those of the martyrs.
Bullet Holes at the Jallianwala Baug
Memorial at the Jallianwala Baug
We were back at the hotel by 1000hrs. We packed up and checked out by 1030hrs to catch the Sarayu Yamuna Express to Delhi. The train left at around 1140hrs, thus ending my first foray into the state of Punjab.
Pics courtesy - Arpit Shah
- Kapil Pilankar
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