The distance from Omkareshwar to Maheshwar is 81kms. Covering this distance in the MP state transport bus, with its numerous halts takes a time equivalent of watching a standard length Hindi movie - the Amitabh Bacchan and Vinod Khanna starer Parvarish as in my case.
Arrving at Maheshwar at about 1:30pm, my first task was too find a place to eat. The only thing I'd eaten in Omkareshwar the day before was the spicy khichadi helped down with loads of curd. I was in better health today, and so I decided to have a better meal, but was quite apprehensive for the quality. Right next to the Maheshwar bus stop is the Gurukripa Bhojanalay. The sight of a Sikh sitting behind the counter was one of the most reassuring things I've ever seen in my life!!!
The next thing after the delicious thali at Gurukripa was to find a place to crash. There were a few places around the bus stand, but I decided to venture near the fort and the Ghats for a better location. I found one to my liking and budget just outside the fort. Maheshwar, being a seat of erstwhile royalty, has quite a few top-end places as well. There's loads of choice.
I set out to explore the place - mostly the fort and the ghats - after a nap at around 5pm, still taking swigs of the ORS. I'd simply say, I love the place. The ghats at Maheshwar are majestic and coupled with the facade of the fort and palace, present a magnificent view. I just casually strolled about the place, taking in the views and noting the splendid pre-modern Hindu architecture.
It was then, as I stepped out to the ghats when I saw the most splendid post-sunset light play I've ever seen in my life.
Dinner followed at Gurukripa again - I was in love with that place. I slept early. I took a round of the ghats again early morning, and followed it up with a breakfast at the Mediterranean themed Labboos Cafe inside the fort. It looked like a good place to chill. These guys also offer accommodation in restored guard rooms of the fort. Should be fun to try some day.
I checked out early in a bid to cover the ghats of Mandleshwar on my way back to Khandwa for my train to Mumbai; actually, Dhamnod is a mere 13km away from Maheshwar with brilliant bus connectivity with Mumbai via the Mumbai-Agra Highway is a better port of entry-exit. Anyway, the ghats of Mandleshwar resemble more of a promenade, though some work is in progress to make it more attractive. I reached the ghats by noon, and the cool breeze blowing there meant that I absolutely had to sit down and soak it all in. I had company of a band of dhol boys who were chattering in a frenzy - mostly fun.
My return journey to Khandwa via Barwaha was spent again in the drivers cabin where I got some conversation flowing and was treated to complementary tea and some friendly advice.
It was about 4pm by the time I arrived at Khandwa and had almost an hour at my disposal. So I decided to visit the second most visited place in Khandwa after the railway station - Kishore Kumar's birthplace. This now dilapidated structure - Ganguly House, Gowri Kunj - was once privy to the innocence and joy of Kishore Da's childhood. I met the caretaker there - an old man of seventy - who recounted the old days when Kishore Da would frequent the place. I gave him a small tip and returned to the railway station to while my time off till the train arrived.
My first trip to MP was about to come to an end. I'd seen quite a bit, I'd learnt quite a bit - more about myself, than anything else. I'd be back soon, there's a lot to know in MP.
© Kapil Pilankar
Arrving at Maheshwar at about 1:30pm, my first task was too find a place to eat. The only thing I'd eaten in Omkareshwar the day before was the spicy khichadi helped down with loads of curd. I was in better health today, and so I decided to have a better meal, but was quite apprehensive for the quality. Right next to the Maheshwar bus stop is the Gurukripa Bhojanalay. The sight of a Sikh sitting behind the counter was one of the most reassuring things I've ever seen in my life!!!
The next thing after the delicious thali at Gurukripa was to find a place to crash. There were a few places around the bus stand, but I decided to venture near the fort and the Ghats for a better location. I found one to my liking and budget just outside the fort. Maheshwar, being a seat of erstwhile royalty, has quite a few top-end places as well. There's loads of choice.
I set out to explore the place - mostly the fort and the ghats - after a nap at around 5pm, still taking swigs of the ORS. I'd simply say, I love the place. The ghats at Maheshwar are majestic and coupled with the facade of the fort and palace, present a magnificent view. I just casually strolled about the place, taking in the views and noting the splendid pre-modern Hindu architecture.
The cenotaphs by the ghats
The Raj-Rajeshwar Temple
Temple complex of Maheshwar
Temple complex
The statue of Ahilyabai Holkar, Maheshwar is greatly indebted to her
Temple complex views
Guardians
It was then, as I stepped out to the ghats when I saw the most splendid post-sunset light play I've ever seen in my life.
The colours of Maheshwar twilight
I checked out early in a bid to cover the ghats of Mandleshwar on my way back to Khandwa for my train to Mumbai; actually, Dhamnod is a mere 13km away from Maheshwar with brilliant bus connectivity with Mumbai via the Mumbai-Agra Highway is a better port of entry-exit. Anyway, the ghats of Mandleshwar resemble more of a promenade, though some work is in progress to make it more attractive. I reached the ghats by noon, and the cool breeze blowing there meant that I absolutely had to sit down and soak it all in. I had company of a band of dhol boys who were chattering in a frenzy - mostly fun.
The steps and temples of Mandleshwar, with the dhol boys
My return journey to Khandwa via Barwaha was spent again in the drivers cabin where I got some conversation flowing and was treated to complementary tea and some friendly advice.
My bus ride ...
It was about 4pm by the time I arrived at Khandwa and had almost an hour at my disposal. So I decided to visit the second most visited place in Khandwa after the railway station - Kishore Kumar's birthplace. This now dilapidated structure - Ganguly House, Gowri Kunj - was once privy to the innocence and joy of Kishore Da's childhood. I met the caretaker there - an old man of seventy - who recounted the old days when Kishore Da would frequent the place. I gave him a small tip and returned to the railway station to while my time off till the train arrived.
I should've taken a selfie here ... this looks like a mugshot of the poor guy
Ganguly House - Gowri Kunj
© Kapil Pilankar
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