The Lighthouse
Post lunch, we drift into small talk to keep off the slumber. A little while later, we are on our way to the village of Nanivali, further north on the road to Dighi. Mr. Sabir tells us there are amazing view-points along the road.
As soon as we leave Sarve, the road winds up a steep incline. The village of Nanivali is located a higher elevation, yet lies along the shore. A kilometer before the village is the first viewpoint which offers a view of the Dighi lighthouse.
This lighthouse assumes significance due to the high activity at the Dighi Port and the rocky shores around it. There’s no direct road to the light house and one has to trek a distance of about 200mts from the last road head. From the village of Sarve, the lighthouse is an enjoyable trek of about two hours over a part rocky, part sandy, part uphill route right next to the shoreline.
The Two Forts
The second view-point is just outside the Nanivali village. Standing here, one can view the majestic Janjira fort and the relatively isolated and unknown Padmadurg in a single field of view - though not on camera. The entire Murud village is seen from this spot.
The fort of Janjira, as described earlier, was the heart of the Siddi kingdom. The mighty fortress has stayed undefeated till Indian independence, after which it was integrated into the Indian state. With its integration, the inhabitants of the island fort gradually returned to the mainland, leaving the fort into the hands of nature and the beleaguered ASI. Sixty years of negligence has taken a great toll on the fort, yet it stands as majestic as ever.
Padmadurg, on the other hand was built by the Marathas with the sole purpose of defeating Janjira. Legend goes that the fort was completed in a night, since by day the Siddi troops would attack and destroy whatever progress was made. Marathas, under the leadership of Sambhaji Maharaj almost accounted for Janjira when an attack from the north by Aurangzeb forced them to divert their attention there.
The Healer
On our way back, we stop by an isolated hut with an aim to get a better photo of the lighthouse.
The hut belongs to a local healer from Nanivali. This man is a thinly built sexagenarian with a failing vision, yet as sprightly as a lamb. He relies on the traditional arts of healing handed over from generations and in return expects just a token of coconut as a payment.
Throughout our conversation he emphasizes the importance of time in the medical practice, a fact that sadly escapes many in the modern medical setup as is so frequently observed.
We take their leave and return to Mr. Sabir's place.
© Kapil Pilankar
Post lunch, we drift into small talk to keep off the slumber. A little while later, we are on our way to the village of Nanivali, further north on the road to Dighi. Mr. Sabir tells us there are amazing view-points along the road.
As soon as we leave Sarve, the road winds up a steep incline. The village of Nanivali is located a higher elevation, yet lies along the shore. A kilometer before the village is the first viewpoint which offers a view of the Dighi lighthouse.
The lighthouse
This lighthouse assumes significance due to the high activity at the Dighi Port and the rocky shores around it. There’s no direct road to the light house and one has to trek a distance of about 200mts from the last road head. From the village of Sarve, the lighthouse is an enjoyable trek of about two hours over a part rocky, part sandy, part uphill route right next to the shoreline.
The Two Forts
The second view-point is just outside the Nanivali village. Standing here, one can view the majestic Janjira fort and the relatively isolated and unknown Padmadurg in a single field of view - though not on camera. The entire Murud village is seen from this spot.
Janjira, with Murud in the background
The fort of Janjira, as described earlier, was the heart of the Siddi kingdom. The mighty fortress has stayed undefeated till Indian independence, after which it was integrated into the Indian state. With its integration, the inhabitants of the island fort gradually returned to the mainland, leaving the fort into the hands of nature and the beleaguered ASI. Sixty years of negligence has taken a great toll on the fort, yet it stands as majestic as ever.
Padmadurg - a faint speck in the distance
Padmadurg, on the other hand was built by the Marathas with the sole purpose of defeating Janjira. Legend goes that the fort was completed in a night, since by day the Siddi troops would attack and destroy whatever progress was made. Marathas, under the leadership of Sambhaji Maharaj almost accounted for Janjira when an attack from the north by Aurangzeb forced them to divert their attention there.
The Healer
On our way back, we stop by an isolated hut with an aim to get a better photo of the lighthouse.
The hut with a view ...
The hut belongs to a local healer from Nanivali. This man is a thinly built sexagenarian with a failing vision, yet as sprightly as a lamb. He relies on the traditional arts of healing handed over from generations and in return expects just a token of coconut as a payment.
The entrance to the hut
The cowshed
Throughout our conversation he emphasizes the importance of time in the medical practice, a fact that sadly escapes many in the modern medical setup as is so frequently observed.
We take their leave and return to Mr. Sabir's place.
© Kapil Pilankar
Beautiful...
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