Exploring Sarve, Part 5 - Bibi's Legacy

My second day at Sarve was spent mostly idling around the village and talking to some of the villagers about Sarve.

The original plan was to watch the sunrise from over a small hill at the northen end. That was junked as soon as I realized that I had overslept. My Pune mates had already departed due to some work back home and I was to myself for the day. After a quick breakfast at Mt. Kifayat’s house, Nasir escorted me back to his own house where Mr. Sabir was already waiting for me.

The sun was up to and the sea-breeze was yet to pick up. We decided to start the warm day with a walk along the shore northwards, and then return via the main street. One of the prominent landmarks of the shore is the skeleton of a whale that had beached here a few years ago. The sheer size of the skeleton is amazing. This one is probably bigger than the one kept in the Ratnagiri aquarium.

A whale vertebra

Further north, we came upon a natural pool that was completely taken over by a herd of buffaloes. Our presence was duly resented and we started our way back.

Moooo ...

I departed Sarve after another hearty lunch with a combination of bike ride, hitchhike and bus ride.

The way back home

Bibi:

One of the persons we met on our way back casually spoke about Bibi Mukadam as one of the famous people from Sarve. The name never registered in my head, until Mr. Sabir brought up the topic again during lunch at this place. According to him, Bibi Mukadam lived in the village in a political exile from her homeland of South Africa where she was a prominent part of the anti-apartheid movement under Nelson Mandela. She was also a friend of the late Mrs. Indira Gandhi, who had visited her at Sarve during her Prime Ministerial days without any security detail. I made a note of this story with a point of exploring in detail once I got home.

-x-x-x-

Born as Ms. Ayesha Bibi Dawood in Worcester, South Africa,  she later married a seaman Mr. Yusuf Mukadam from Sarve, India. The details of her life are well documented by the South African government ( Link 1 ; Link 2 ). This is a very exciting discovery, especially since there is hardly any mention or knowledge that such a person existed and made a remote corner of our country her home for most of her life.

Recognition by the Government of South Africa

Mr. Sabir’s words ring out clearly here: “She lived among us as one of us. Yet when one was around her one could feel greatness exude from herself. The way she carried herself clearly marked her as a prominent person. Yet, we did not know who she was. Nor did she ever tell herself.”

Bibi returned to the country of her birth in the 1990s. After her death, a steady trickle of journalists from South Africa happened to make their way to Sarve. That’s when the real magnitude of her greatness dawned on the people. Yet today her story is not well known even in Sarve.

Let’s hope for the best – for Bibi’s legacy and for Sarve…

© Kapil Pilankar

Exploring Sarve, Part 4 - Of Fishes and Govinda

Our evening at Sarve was flowing along as we chatted about our lives, our work, our worlds and our universe ... a full 42 conversation. the lazy flow of the evening was interrupted when Mr. Sabir asked us to get ready for the activity of the night - fishing!

Something Fishy ...

We accompanied him as he went to check on his net that he had cast neat the shallow pools. Wading through knee deep water, we made our way to the net. There was a fish, locally called ‘hausa’, which was caught in the net. It has a sharp dorsal fin equipped with a sting that hurts like that of a scorpion’s. Mr. Sabir carefully untangled it from the net and kept it on the dry rocks nearby, while we continued onward to inspect the rest of the net.

The Hausa

Here we found a few crabs and one water-snake which were also caught in the net. Mr. Sabir gave us a lesson crab-catching. The only way to safely catch a ‪crab‬ is by gently pushing the head so that it just stops in its tracks and then carefully bundle the ‪‎claws‬ in. In such a position they are mostly harmless.

Crab catching

We returned to the house with our catch - ‘hausa’. That fish would fetch about Rs. 150-200 if sold to the Kunbi casts people. Kolis and Muslims will not pay even Rs. 10 for it, we were told.

Older catch - hausa and boi - now frozen

Gooovindaaa re Gooopala ...

We had a light vegetarian dinner after which we made our way to Mr. Kifayat’s house, where we were to spend the night. His house was at the other end of the village and the short walk almost seemed like a guided tour of the village itself. Another relaxed session of chatting ensued - this time our religion and beliefs were added to the general mix. This session lasted till almost midnight, when we again left the house to attend the Janmasthami celebrations at the village temple.

We made our way to the temple and were greeted by the Sarpanch and other elders. The ex-Sarpanch sat with us and gave a brief account of the village conditions and customs. A quick cup of black tea was served as the puja began with the priest narrating a dramatic account of the birth of Lord Krishna. The fervor of his pitch steadily rose as the time of Lord’s birth drew near. The main aarti started sharp at midnight. This was followed by a short procession of village kids dancing along to ‘goooooooovindaaa re goooopaalaaa …’.

We joined the fun and were quickly drenched as the villagers threw bucket after bucket of water on the kids and by extension us too.

After a while we excused ourselves and returned back to Mr. Kifayat's house for some much needed rest after a long but fun day.

© Kapil Pilankar

Exploring Sarve, Part 3 - A Hidden Cascade

We are at Mr. Sabir’s place after the seeing the viewpoints. He has to attend an urgent meeting in the village and takes our leave. Shortly, Nasir and Jamil, sons of Mr. Sabir and Mr. Kifayat respectively, make an appearance. Nasir, as described earlier, studies in the local ITI. They are to guide us to a waterfall located about 30 minutes inland. Mr. Sabir’s youngest daughter, Mantshaa, would also accompany us.

The waterfall is to the south-east of the village. We cross the small stream just beyond the last of the houses that is fed by the waterfall and ascend along the left (southern) bank. The path makes its way gradually in to the thick forest. We pass a small waterfall along the way followed by a small meadow of pink wildflowers. The forest is denser from here on.

Pink bloom

Out path is blocked twice by huge spider webs under which we duck to pass through.

The spider guardian

The path has overgrown bushes throughout. Nasir has carried a sickle for precisely this task and clears them. The path, it seems, was not used frequently.

Clearing up the path

The roar of the waterfall announced its proximity before we had an opportunity to see it. Even then, the waterfall had us in awe once we saw it. Water fell heavily from a stream for about 100 feet into a pool of clear water. The pool was not too deep and was safe for a quick dip. Behind the waterfall, the waters had carved out a very cozy cavern.

The waterfall and the small cavern

We lazed around the waterfall for a good part of the hour before our guides decided it was time we moved on. The waterfall belonged to the forest folks after dark - peacocks and other birds, deer, boar and leopards.

A view from the cavern

After descending about halfway through the trail, our guides asked us to halt for some time and promptly disappeared along a side trail. Waiting for about 15 minutes, and hearing their not so distant voices, got the better of my curiosity and I decided to follow. To my surprise, I saw Jamil halfway up a coconut tree, trying to desperately scythe free some fresh coconuts for the lot of us. Nasir, wearing jeans, belted instructions from below. It was quite a scene.

Caught in the act ... 

The duo returned with their loot of one coconut for each of us. i tried my luck with scything open one, but it ultimately had to be done by Nasir.

Nasir scything coconuts

Jamil in action

As we returned to the main road, the sun had already painted the sky crimson-orange as it prepared to set. We sat down on a grassy knoll to watch the view as peacocks kee-oik-ed in the distance.

Evening colours

The setting sun

By the time we returned to Mr. Sabir’s house, the last of the evening light was cast over the horizon. We freshened up and settled down for a lazy evening chat.

Twilight by the sea ...

© Kapil Pilankar

Exploring Sarve, Part 2 - A Lighthouse, Two Forts and A Healer

The Lighthouse

Post lunch, we drift into small talk to keep off the slumber. A little while later, we are on our way to the village of Nanivali, further north on the road to Dighi. Mr. Sabir tells us there are amazing view-points along the road.

As soon as we leave Sarve, the road winds up a steep incline. The village of Nanivali is located a higher elevation, yet lies along the shore. A kilometer before the village is the first viewpoint which offers a view of the Dighi lighthouse.

The lighthouse

This lighthouse assumes significance due to the high activity at the Dighi Port and the rocky shores around it. There’s no direct road to the light house and one has to trek a distance of about 200mts from the last road head. From the village of Sarve, the lighthouse is an enjoyable trek of about two hours over a part rocky, part sandy, part uphill route right next to the shoreline.

The Two Forts

The second view-point is just outside the Nanivali village. Standing here, one can view the majestic Janjira fort and the relatively isolated and unknown Padmadurg in a single field of view - though not on camera. The entire Murud village is seen from this spot.

Janjira, with Murud in the background

The fort of Janjira, as described earlier, was the heart of the Siddi kingdom. The mighty fortress has stayed undefeated till Indian independence, after which it was integrated into the Indian state. With its integration, the inhabitants of the island fort gradually returned to the mainland, leaving the fort into the hands of nature and the beleaguered ASI. Sixty years of negligence has taken a great toll on the fort, yet it stands as majestic as ever.

Padmadurg  - a faint speck in the distance

Padmadurg, on the other hand was built by the Marathas with the sole purpose of defeating Janjira. Legend goes that the fort was completed in a night, since by day the Siddi troops would attack and destroy whatever progress was made. Marathas, under the leadership of Sambhaji Maharaj almost accounted for Janjira when an attack from the north by Aurangzeb forced them to divert their attention there.

The Healer

On our way back, we stop by an isolated hut with an aim to get a better photo of the lighthouse.

The hut with a view ...

The hut belongs to a local healer from Nanivali. This man is a thinly built sexagenarian with a failing vision, yet as sprightly as a lamb. He relies on the traditional arts of healing handed over from generations and in return expects just a token of coconut as a payment.

The entrance to the hut

The cowshed

Throughout our conversation he emphasizes the importance of time in the medical practice, a fact that sadly escapes many in the modern medical setup as is so frequently observed.

We take their leave and return to Mr. Sabir's place.

© Kapil Pilankar

Exploring Sarve, Part 1 - Introductions

Sarve, Habsan

Murud, along the coast of Raigad district in Maharashtra is a well known tourist spot famous for the impregnable and undefeated sea-fort of Janjira. The Siddi Dynasty exerted uninterrupted control over the island fort and the surrounding region - called Habsan - from the late 15th century, right up to its ascension into the Indian Republic in 1948, resisting attacks by the Marathas, British, Portuguese and the Dutch.

A little south of Murud, across the Dighi creek lies the sleepy coastal village of Sarve, also a part of the erstwhile Habsan state.

Sarve - on the map

Sarve - as it stands today - is an up and coming rural-tourism destination. The village seeks to promote a unique brand of sustainable rural tourism by relying on community support and making the best use of its available natural resources. In this, they are actively supported by the Swades Foundation and Grassroutes.

The village also has a unique identity with its association with South African anti-apartheid crusader Ayesha (Bibi) Dawood. Sadly, this important thread of history is slowly being forgotten. So much so, that I only learnt about it after being given a passing reference just ahead of my departure from the village.

The village of Sarve has three major communities - Muslims, Kolis and Kunbis (in no particular order).

Approaching Sarve

Sarve can be approached by two routes:

• Mangaon - Mhasala - Vadavli Phata - Aadgaon - Sarve
• Alibag/Roha - Murud - Agardanda - Ferry- Dighi - Sarve

Alibag, Roha and Mangaon are well connected to both Mumbai and Pune. The total drive from Mumbai takes about six hours, while that from Pune takes about four.

We - me and my mates from Pune - took the first route. After crossing the Velas Agaar village - not to be confused with the one in Ratnagiri famous for the turtle hatchlings - the road aligns itself right next to the coast. The rocky shore near Velas Agar - with its peculiar temple - slowly gives way to a fabulous beach at Aadgaon.

The peculiar temple at Velas Agaar - on a rock! I regret not taking a closer pic.

The Aadgaon Beach

The road climbs here, away from the shore, and then rejoins as the village of Sarve with its rocky shore falls into view.

Our Hosts

Near the first set of houses on the shore-side we are greeted by our host for the weekend, Mr. Sabir Mukadam alongwith Mr. Kifayat Chougule, our co-host. He spearheads the rural-tourism initiative of the local community and is usually the first point of contact. He is a sharp man, in mid 40s, driven by a purpose.

He had spent most of his prime in Mumbai, working hard to make his ends meet and save for the family back home. After saving enough to construct his own house, he returned to Sarve, mostly empty handed, but with a vision for the future. We met up with his family - wife and three daughters. The son, now studying in an ITI, was out and would return later in the day.

His modest house is bang on the shoreline at about 20 steps from the water, but at a safe elevation. Over lunch, he narrates a story of one of the many severe coastal storms his house has endured. We listen, enchanted by the narrative.

Mr. Sabir's House and the rocky shoreline

The lunch itself is a modest fare, in sync with the general mood of the place. Yet there’s enough opulence in hospitality that makes everything a lavish affair. The food stays vegetarian, owing to the month of Shravan. The non-vegetarian delicacies will have to be sampled next time.

Oh yes, the non-vegetarian diet primarily includes fish - caught by hands as they drift into the shallow pools formed by the rocky shoreline. We are told we would be trying that in the evening. Excited smiles abound!

Contact Info:

For bookings, Sabir Mukadam can be reached on 7588650329. Alternately, Rudes Gaikar of the Swades Foundation be reached on 9209715520.

© Kapil Pilankar